Camino de Santiago
Stage 4/5
9 days, 126 miles October 2025
Leon to Sarria. We liked this stage more than the last stage. Scenery was more diverse. Less roadside paths. Some days had spectacular views. Beautiful sunrises. Lots of rolling hills. Hiked through several forests and mountain passes. More farmland including corn, dairy cows (who definitely have the right of way) and vineyards that have now changed colors and been harvested. Got ahead of our Camino besties, but have found new friends. We only have 5 more walking days. Feet are ready to be done, but not sure we are mentally ready. It’s been a wonderful journey.
Day 24: León to Hospital de Órbigo
Date: Wed, Oct 8, 2025
Weather: Warmed up fairly quickly today. Great hiking weather.
Miles: 22.5
Time walking: 8am -5pm
Difficulty: Hard. It was primarily flat day but after 16-18 miles Amy’s feet were killing her so more focused on when we will get there versus enjoying the walk. In retrospect Amy should have taken a taxi to first town about 4.5 miles in and/or transported her bag.
Headed towards full moon when leaving town.
Also caught sunrise as we crossed over a bridge.
El Peregrino statue was looking like we were going to feel by the end of this long day.
Walked through an industrial section and stopped at 4.5 miles for coffee. Note: we stopped at first bar, which had run out of tortilla. We should have continued to several other options.
Took the alternative route, slightly longer, but very pleasant to avoid busy road. Walked with Josh from London that works for the church setting up policies and standards to ensure the kids are safe. He was walking/not walking with his friend “el vaquero”, cowboy.
Stopped at 9 miles for lunch. Good choice, popular choice.
Miles of dry corn fields along a road with no end.
Passed the 300km to go marker.
Ended our long walk crossing the 13th century bridge. Stories of jousting matches to allow crossing.
Dinner Restaurant Jabel. Big portions. Food was good. Limited menu. Gave us a complimentary slice of tortilla to begin and a shot of Bailey’s at the end. Ate with Tony from Australia.
Hotel: Hostal Don Suero de Quiñones ($103 no breakfast) 👍. Hotel right after bridge on Camino. good location. Big clean room. Comfortable beds. Nice view out our window.
Day 25: Hospital de Órbigo to Astorga
Date: Thurs, Oct 9, 2025
Weather: typical cool early morning to warm late morning.
Miles: 11
Time walking: typical cool early morning to warm late morning.
Difficulty: Easy. Fully enjoyed the walk today. Beautiful scenery, away from main roads, eerie fog to begin and some rolling hills.
Beautiful sunrise from our window looking out on the historic stone bridge.
1.5 miles in we stopped for breakfast, where we saw Mary, who we had met at a previous breakfast.
Walked by more corn. Yes we are now obsessed with the drying corn. Love the lighting in the morning.
Walked with Mary (doctor originally from Venezuela now in Boca Raton running a restaurant with her husband. This is her 3rd Camino).
Also walked with Sarah from Taiwan. She is part of a hiking group in Taiwan and one of its leaders (78 year old) asked her to accompany him on the Camino as he doesn’t speak English, and she is fluent.
Passed by some cows munching through the railing.
Ran into a big school field trip -heard them long before we saw them.
Beautiful view of Astorga as we got closer
Walked through a very elaborate bridge over a railroad track -active.
Lunch at La Pepe. Had the pilgrim’s menu. Food was plentiful and good. Below was just first course.
Hotel: Eurostars Vía de la Plata ($102, no breakfast) 👍👍. We hit the jackpot. Huge bathroom with 2 sinks and separate tub. Separate living area and very nice size bed. Nice views out our windows. Great location. Friendly reception. Had a spa. Wish we had more time to enjoy it.
Day 26: Astorga to Rabanal del Camino
Date: Fri, Oct 10, 2025
Weather: Cool start -wore our new fleece jackets in the morning, but warmed up late morning, so we stripped down to a T-shirt
Miles: 13.5
Time walking: 5 hours -9am - 3pm
Difficulty: Far easier than anticipated. We got into some treeline today which was nice for a change and shade. 1,300 ft but was very gradual.
Started the day off with a beautiful sunrise from our room. Amy transferred a bag in anticipation of a big climb today.
Had breakfast at a busy cafe across from our hotel. Sat with Ella from Chicago who recently graduated from college, and delayed starting her first job to November, so she planned three weeks of Camino. She started in Leon, planning to Santiago.
Hotel: Posada De Gaspar ($87 no breakfast)👍. On the Camino - last building in town. Has character. Bar and restaurant. Room had a deck and drying rack. Bed was comfortable. Thin walls, but was quiet after 9pm. Able to eat dinner at 6pm.
Day 27: Rabanal del Camino to Molinaseca
Date: Sat, Oct 11, 2025
Weather: Crisp morning followed by sunshine late morning and warm afternoon as we descended
Miles: 15.5
Time walking: 6.5 hours. 8am- 5pm
Difficulty: Hard. Lots up uphill initially and then never ending downhill with some steep sections. Needed to step carefully. Poles very helpful. Underestimated how long it was going to take to walk.
Amy transferred her bag again given all the talk about a very tough downhill.
Enjoyed a beautiful sunrise leaving town
Followed by lots of fall colors as we hiked through trees and bushes.
Thought we reached the top at 3.5 miles and stopped for breakfast
Beautiful mountains
Made it to Cruz de Ferro, which stands at an altitude of 1,515 metres the highest point of the Camino.
Stopped at trailside spot for a yummy slice of lemon cake. Hamlet of one
Gorgeous panoramic view
Descending to town where we had lunch
Lunch in warm sun. Good salad, pasta and carrot cake. Beer and wine.
Steepest descent unbeknownst to us was still ahead.
Beautiful fall colors continue
Lovely river and bridge as we came into town of Molinaseca.
Joined the communal dinner - very good Brazilian feast. Very chatty host.
Hotel: Hostal Casa San Nicolas ($75, no breakfast) 👍. Nice remodeled room. Very nice host. Comfortable bed. Just off the river.
Day 28: Molinaseca to Villafranca del Bierzo
Date: Sun, Oct 12, 2025
Weather: Another crisp morning warming up substantially in the afternoon
Miles: 19.5
Time walking: 7.5 hours. 8am - 5:30pm
Difficulty: Moderate due to the number of miles. Mostly flat but definitely lots of rolling hills through the spectacularly beautiful vineyards.
We’ve been doing good getting out by 8am to enjoy the morning light.
We are never alone even though we are on the later side leaving at 8am
Stopped for breakfast 3.5 miles in at a nice upscale coffee shop - MOA
We made a wrong turn into the old town and began to back track only to run into Mary (aka Irina). She was in tears, and shared with us her Camino this year is over. Her knee gave out on her. We will leave behind a shell for her in Santiago as she is now part of our journey.
Walked through many towns today. Seemed like some kids were doing a mini Camino between the villages
Saw a man riding a horse in one of the towns
Our host suggested we stop at Moncloa de San Lázaro. His directions made it easy to find. Beautiful outdoor space.
Another beautiful church
Wow just wow all the vineyards on our last few miles. We took a million pictures.
We were bummed our hotel wasn’t serving dinner as we heard very good comments about it, so ended at the Plaza. Busy. Food was just okay. Some commotion at the bar area from drink patrons. Concerned it would escalate but fortunately didn’t.
Hotel: Micro-Hostal La Puerta del Perdón ($83, including breakfast). Room is good. Bed comfortable. Near the plaza. Breakfast cake good as well as coffee. Also had bread and jam. Another carbo load session.
Day 29: Villafranca del Bierzo to La Laguna
Date: Mon, Oct 13, 2025
Weather: Cool then warm...
Miles: 17.5
Time walking: 8:30am - 5pm, (7 hours)
Difficulty: Hard. 2 major ascents and some steep downhill. Ascent 3,800 ft. Lots of bugs (flies, nats,..) on the afternoon ascent portion.
Good day to transfer a bag. Town was bigger than we thought.
Had a choice when we left town right or left. Larry chose right to get off the road. A couple of miles straight uphill.
Beautiful views
Along the ridge for awhile
Through pine forest
Saw our first chestnut trees. Found our way with no trail, but following the red line on our Camino app, as well as the local farmer that wished us well with a gesture in our direction.
Then steep back downhill for 1-2 miles dirt, then road
Hiked parallel to and crossing roads, before climbing up endlessly on dirt road thru terrible amount of flies or maybe mosquitos buzzing around our ears and faces. Super annoying. Near the top, a girl from Mexico offered us her spray, which seemed to help a bit. Saw a very friendly and curious white horse near the top.
Arrived fairly late and tired into our small town for the night.
Tim from Wales at the table next to us joined with his leftover wine as we were chatting with a couple, Brett and Keri from Kansas City. Our goofy host was the photo bomb.
Finished the night with Zoco - local appetif.
Hotel: Albergue la escuela ($67, no breakfast) 👌Clean and very simple. Small twin beds, not all that comfortable. Nice dinner available anytime
Day 30: La Laguna to Triacastle
Date: Tues, Oct 14, 2025
Weather: Cool day but very comfortable. Ate dinner outside without jackets. Back by 7pm and noticed it was raining even though there was no rain in the forecast.
Miles:15
Time walking: 7:55am - 3pm
Difficulty: Moderate. First off the last mile up to o. Not as steep as the day before. Rest of day flat with some steep ups and downs. Feet were tired by end of day.
Started in the dark for the first time (just before 8am).
Steep and looking carefully to see the path.
Sunrise at the top made it worthwhile.
Entered the new region of Galicia.
Walked with Susan and Brian from Howth, Ireland on Susan’s 55th birthday.
Then walked with Alison from San Diego who knew many of our earlier Camino friends
Half way in, after a very steep hill climb, we hit a welcomed and popular lunch spot, where we saw many familiar people, including Milan, whom we hadn’t seen for a week or two, and noted he had cut off his dreadlocks.
Lots of farm land
Passed an 800 year old chestnut tree
Happy to arrive in cool little town of Triacastela where many people were staying.
Fabulous dinner with Susan and Brian. Good salmon.
Hotel: Pension Casa Simon ($69, no breakfast) 👍👍. Large clean, bright, comfortable room right on the Camino. Did our laundry 10 euro. No TV. Small shower. Very comfortable bed. Purchased a hearty breakfast the next morning.
Day 31: Triacastela to Sarria
Date: Wed, Oct 15, 2025
Weather: Similar to others. Cool morning, warm sunny afternoon.
Miles: 11
Time walking: 4.5 hours. 9am - 2pm
Difficulty: Easy/Moderate. Lots of ups and downs in rolling hills. Small working dairy farming towns scattered throughout walk. Mostly dirt paths.
As we were leaving town, needed to decide if going left (17 miles past Samos monastery, path mostly on the road) or right (11 miles rolling hills with views and forest). We went right - shorter more scenic route.
Walked the morning with a redhead named Harry from the UK -no, not THAT Harry.
Hiked through a fair amount of forest
Passed through lots of small working dairy farm towns
Cows had the right of way crossing our walking path.
Nice views of the expansive farmland
Farm dog was barking up the right tree, but kitty cat was not moving.
Low clouds in the distance
Saw a goat farm at the edge of Sarria
Ate at Meson Roberto Restaurant. Food was good but missed our pilgrims and the good value pilgrim menu.
Hotel: Casa da Marquesa Sarria ($75, no breakfast). 👌. Advertised as a 1 bedroom apartment but definitely a Studio right off the Camino. Clean. Good size. Small Tv no streaming. Ground floor so loud. Bed wasn’t that comfortable
