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Camino de Santiago

Reflections/Advice

Trail

  • The walk is physically challenging. You need to be in good shape. Lots of days we were hiking on rocky paths. Long days (15 miles average) back-to-back. Some days steep ascents or descents.

  • Highly recommend you follow a training plan. Not just walking back-to-back days but doing strength training and yoga / stretching. Make sure you include hills with ascents and descents with your backpack. We used Chat GPT to create a training program.

  • There is no easy day except for a rest day

  • Body needs every 7 days or so a rest day or low mileage (6-8 miles) day

  • No need to walk more than 14-16 miles a day. Can always stay somewhere multiple nights and taxi to start and end points

  • Interesting that most of our next overnights were less than a 20-minute drive from wherever we were.

  • Easy to decide day before to send your backpack ahead and/or take a taxi or bus to your next destination.

  • You will get a blister, so be prepared with Compeed. Don’t ignore a hot spot.

  • We heard people share they are “intending” to walk to Santiago rather than stating they “were” walking to Santiago.  Learned quickly some people need to stop their camino due to issues (e.g., knees, infected blisters, etc.). Listen to your body and adjust. Some were returning to continue their previous Camino.

  • You are never alone. Stop for just a few minutes and someone will appear

  • Gross TP left all along trail. Bring a pee rag or a bag to put your TP in and throw it out later.

  • So many people started walking 1-2 hours before the sun even came up. They like the solitude, predawn light or are rushing to secure an Albergue, etc. Headlamp required, if going early (we only did once -phone light worked, not ideal).

  • Many afternoons shade is scarce, and you must plan accordingly for the sun, as it drains you. Left side gets full sun exposure. People had nice carbon umbrellas they could use for sun or shade.

  • You must remember to turnaround as sometimes the best views are looking back.

  • Know where you are headed and check frequently to ensure you are still on your route.

  • Can buy inexpensive hiking poles in SJDP and donate them to the pilgrim office in Santiago. They were very helpful on the steep ascents and descents.  

  • Make sure you lace (fairly tightly) your shoelaces, so feet aren't moving around

 

People

  • The Camino community is amazing, especially those committed to the long haul.

  • Easy to join and chat with your fellow pilgrims. They have interesting stories to share. Expect to see, lose and find people. Get their contact info and/or get a photo before you lose them forever.

  • Don’t wait to take pictures with people you develop a relationship with.. as eventually your paths will not cross again.

 

Food

  • Red wine is always served cold -inexpensive and delicious.

  • Widely available Pilgrim meals - 3 courses including wine, water and bread from $15 - $25 per person.

  • Many restaurants and stores closed between 4pm and 7pm. Plan accordingly.

 

Towns

  • We loved the small / medium villages where we could easily find other pilgrims versus the big towns with lots of tourists

  • Towns start to blend together. All very similar architecture.

  • Towns look deserted as you walk through them

  • There is a significant amount of pro-Palestine flags, graffiti and even demonstrations - particularly in the first couple of stages. Not as much after stage 3

 

Lodging

  • Important to choose lodging on the trail or within a couple of blocks of the trail. After a long day of walking adding another .5 mile off track seems like forever

  • We booked (primarily via booking.com) our entire walk in-advance as that is how we roll, we wanted private rooms, and we didn't want to think about it while we were walking.  Others would book be in advance the first 3 nights and then 2-3 nights ahead as they walked.  This seems to work particularly in the bigger towns and in the less crowded stages 2,3,4.  The smaller the town and busier it is if you want a private room the further in advance you should book.

  • Some folks suggested to stay in a monastery during your Camino to get a well-rounded experience such as the historic Monastery of San Martín Pinario (Santiago de Compostela) for simple pilgrim rooms or luxury, Monasterio de Samos, and the Monastery of San Salvador del Monte Irago (Rabanal del Camino) for a rustic experience with modern amenities, plus other converted religious buildings like the Hotel Roncesvalles and Hostal de San Marcos in León, offering unique historical stays with pilgrim services. Need to book these stays in advance.

  • Others suggested to stay in a Parador - historic, luxury hotels along the Camino Francés, offering a splurge for pilgrims, with key locations in Santiago de Compostela, León (Convento de San Marcos), Villafranca del Bierzo, and Santo Domingo de la Calzada, providing unique historical ambiance and comfort, perfect for rest days or ending the journey in style, though they are more expensive than standard Albergue.  Need to book these stays in advance.

  • Best experiences were in lodging that had bars / restaurants or organized dinners, as everyone congregated there in a communal welcoming atmosphere. Albergue tend to offer communal dinners if they have a kitchen.

  • Most beds were firm twin size either pushed together, or not. Many had one long pillow that you shared.

  • Usually easy to check in early, as most have checked out early from the prior night

  • Heated towel racks were mostly turned off, but surprising number of places had hair dryers, which helped finish off the clothes drying in the morning.

 

Other

  • In order to get your certificate at the end you need to get a stamp every day and 2 stamps from Sarria onwards.  It is easy, as pretty much all lodging and restaurants offer stamps.

  • First thing on arrival to your lodging - wash clothes, dry as much as possible with towel, then look for sun to hang them.

  • Interesting how easy it was to change hotels every night when you have so little to pack and unpack.

  • You don’t forget to ask for a stamp, as it becomes second nature

  • Don’t over think your day. Arriving between 2 and 5 worked well for us.

  • So many flies particularly on stages 1-3. Very annoying. Perhaps better in morning than afternoon. Insect spray may help. Saw someone in a mosquito net hood.

  • “Where there is contrast there is beauty”

 

Our obsessions:

Fields of sunflowers, corn, and grape vines; leaves changing colors; different styles of Camino signs in each city; huge building side murals; door knockers (hand); chocolate napolitanas; cheese cake; carrot cake; O’Cebreiro cheese; Galician soup; cappuccinos; vermouth on ice; cold red wine; wax stamps; finding a shell symbol or yellow arrow to ensure we were on the camino; hearing and saying Buen Camino to pilgrims; randomly finding our pilgrim friends; domestic animals (cows, horses, donkeys; goats, sheep, chickens …); Roman wall last 100km; corn drying houses; sunrises, bringing a small rock from home to share the Camino with that is no longer with you and/or releasing that rock along the way when you have lighted your mental load.

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