Norway
Lofoten
Lofoten is above the Arctic Circle, it receives a climate that is far warmer than you’d imagine, thanks to the warm Gulf Stream, similar to Iceland. So it wasn't freezing, but we did get a lot of wind and rain while we were there. The couple of days when the sun shone Lofoten was magical. The mountains are jagged, sheer and mystical. The fishing villages along the shoreline are rustic and purpose built wood cabins. We were surprised to see so many different species of jellyfish. With good weather there are lots of hikes and beaches to explore. With rainy weather, you can explore the villages, but we quickly found out there isn't much to explore, so our days weren't as full. The one sunset we happen to catch at 11pm was the most beautiful sunset we have ever seen. We were so lucky the weather cooperated with us that night. We also felt lucky to get our sunny clear hiking and kayaking day.
Note:
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Public transportation is limited. Recommend you rent a car
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Consider going in July. Weather matters as when it is cloudy and rainy less to do.
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We aren't campers but lots of people camping / RVing.
6 days (given our weather wasn't great could have combined day 13 and 14)
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Day 11: Arrival, sunset
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Day 12: Reinebringen hike and kayak
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Day 13: South - A, Reine
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Day 14: North - Nusfjord
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Day 15: Transfer to Henningsvaer, Festvagtinden hike
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Day 16: Hennigsvaer
Hotels: Loved both our hotels Eliassen Rorbuer and Trevarefabrikken
Favorite restaurant or bar: Krambua, Trevarefabrikken - pizza and wine with view
Lofoten
Lofoten is above the Arctic Circle, it receives a climate that is far warmer than you’d imagine, thanks to the warm Gulf Stream, similar to Iceland. So it wasn't freezing, but we did get a lot of wind and rain while we were there. The couple of days when the sun shone Lofoten was magical. The mountains are jagged, sheer and mystical. The fishing villages along the shoreline are rustic and purpose built wood cabins. We were surprised to see so many different species of jellyfish. With good weather there are lots of hikes and beaches to explore. With rainy weather, you can explore the villages, but we quickly found out there isn't much to explore, so our days weren't as full. The one sunset we happen to catch at 11pm was the most beautiful sunset we have ever seen. We were so lucky the weather cooperated with us that night. We also felt lucky to get our sunny clear hiking and kayaking day.
Note:
6 days (given our weather wasn't great could have combined day 13 and 14)
-
Day 11: Arrival, sunset
-
Day 12: Reinebringen hike and kayak
-
Day 13: South - A, Reine
-
Day 14: North - Nusfjord
-
Day 15: Transfer to Henningsvaer, Festvagtinden hike
-
Day 16: Hennigsvaer
Hotels: Loved both our hotels Eliassen Rorbuer and Trevarefabrikken
Favorite restaurant or bar: Krambua, Trevarefabrikken - pizza and wine with view
Day 11: Arrival
Very easy to take the light rail to the airport from downtown Bergen. Flight to Leknes very smooth . They turned the plane around within an extremely short window during our connection in Bodo. Try to get a window seat into Leknes. Ours was free seating, so it was easy to do, if you get in the boarding line quickly.
Ate at Digg in Leknes. Good food (fish and chips and salmon) with friendly service.
Went outside our cabin around 10:45pm.
Walked one minute to the bridge. By 11pm no filters no adjustments to our camera - just wow.
Sunset officially at 10:35pm. Didn’t catch the 3:51am sunrise.
Hotel: Eliassen Rorbuer. We had a one-bedroom former fisherman’s cabin (Arthurbua) right on the water with a great view. Location was fabulous. Felt very fortunate to be staying in our little cabin. Bakery, bar and restaurant on site. Our kayak operator was coincendtly on site as well
Our cabin is second from the left #23, directly across from the green cabin.
Day 12: Reinebringen hike and kayak
Walked over to the next town. Not much there except a couple of restaurants and fabulous views on the way.
Drove four miles to Reinebringen to start our hike Top parking lot was full so parked in lower lot ($30). This is what we hiked up.
1,978 stairs up we went. All stairs, no plateaus. Closer we got to the top the more exposed and steeper it got. This was a hard hike. Very glad to have poles. Heights freaked Amy out a bit towards the last 20% of the hike. No railings.
The view at the top made it all worth it. Absolutely stunning. We absolutely lucked out with weather. Larry actually went one more view point higher than this but there weren't stairs the entire way and it was crowded.
Lunch at Anita’s. Very popular good salads and cod burgers.
Weather began to change - sky darkened as we walked to our kayak, but really just misty. Our guide, Barbara from Greece, was great. She comes up to work here during the high season, which still seemed pretty light to us -though she said it was “busy”. Very informative, knowledgeable of kayaking, made us feel ready and safe. First time kayaking with zipped in skirt, which was great for avoiding splashed wet legs.
Saw some beautiful jellyfish and a sea eagle. The first jelly fish is a lion's mane. The most common jelly fish in Norway. The three hour kayak activity went by quickly.
Dinner: Underhuset. 15 minute walk into the next town. Good food. More fish. Nice presentation. House wine wasn’t bad. Typical Noreweign pricy.
Day 13: A, Reine
Drove South for about 25 minutes to the town of A. Road just dead ends into a parking lot of a hike. Unfortunately, too rainy to consider. We parked in the small town. Went into the Backeri. Very tiny, and popular, and yummy.
Walked through one of the seven buildings of the Norwegian Fish Museum that shares the fishing history with a lot of fishing gear hanging around.
Bought some Lofoten Caviar (very reasonably priced) to try for lunch, since we can’t carry it on the plane. It was good. Was told to put it on top of eggs, which would be tasty. Thought it would be clean, healthy and natural, but apparently not so much.
Rainy grey day continued. It poured on and off 11am - 3:30pm. What a difference from yesterday. Looked around Reine, but not much to see.
Stopped by the Coop for more lunch supplies and had quite the lunch spread in our cabin before we went our own ways for a couple of hours of relaxing and watching our shows.
Sun did come out around 4pm. Went to the bridge for some more pictures, as the view never gets old.
Walked to an adjacent property that looked similar, but newer and nicer with a couple saunas with stairs to the water (our property’s sauna was broken, and not appealingly positioned away from the water).
Dinner on our property at Krambua. Best meal in Lofoten so far. Wonderful seafood pasta and a fresh fish. Good size wine pours and portions. Relatively reasonable prices.
Day 14: Nusfjord
Had a visitor this morning. Weather gray and rainy.
Passing by fisheries on way to Nusfjord.
Lots of low hanging clouds hugging the mountains.
Lots of bright wild flowers everywhere on the islands.
Many fish drying racks. Fishing/drying season is February - early June. During that time period most of the birds have migrated and start to return early June, but apparently the scarecrows also help prevent fish theft by birds.
Lots of fishing cabins along the shoreline into Nusfjord. Grab parking where you can as it is sparse.
You pay $15 to wander around this charming village. Able to see a blacksmith shop and fishing museum. Our timing was good for sunshine as we strolled. Tons of wonderful views for photos.
Hi hi sheep friends.
There is a bakeri (worth a visit) and a restaurant.
This huge rock seemed to be perched precariously above the road.
Passed a beach, surfing, yoga camp with a faint rainbow. Learned that low arch rainbows are due to the low sun angle of our far northern latitude.
Stopped off at the Ramberg Resort for lunch. Small menu with tasty food.
Due to weather we didn't go to Kvalvika Beach but if weather was good would have hiked around Ryten (overlooking Kvalvika Beach). 5.4 miles, Easy to moderate, 3 to 5 hours. Instead we went back and relaxed before having our final dinner with Kim and Mark at Kambru
Day 15: Transfer to Henningsvaer, Festvagtinden hike
Wow, when the sun is out, and it is clear, Lofoten is magical.
Drove with Mark and Kim into Leknes to get dropped at the public bus stop - bus 741 to Rorvik to connect with 743 to Henningsvaer. It felt like we were in the middle of nowhere. Particularly as we stood on the opposite side of the street from where we saw the bus stop sign, but knew our side was the right direction. Were able to see on the Entur app that bus 741 was late. First saw 741 go by the wrong direction, but driver signaled he would be looping back, which did happen about 10 minutes later.
Gorgeous scenery along the way.
Stopped in Rorvik to transfer to bus 743. Had a two hour wait, which wasn’t ideal, but at least we had a beautiful view.
Dragging our suitcases down the road to check out another view while we waited, a German couple drove by slowly and asked if we were going to Henningsvaer. We jumped in for a ride to our hotel two hours ahead of the bus. They drove us right to our hotel, and we were able to confirm they could park there, which they really appreciated given the very limited parking.
Given the rare clear day, Larry headed out and did the Festvagtinden hike. About a mile and a half each way on the road to access the trail.
A steep rocky scramble to a lake, then up to beautiful views. Very popular.
Nice views from the lake.
There is a bakeri (worth a visit) and a restaurant.
Up more rock scramble for about 45 minutes to the top.
With more amazing views on the way.
Lots of people at the top, but snagged the very top for a quick 360 video.
PLACE HOLDER FOR VIDEO
Some sheer drops looking down the other side.
Quickly made it back into town to meet up with Amy for hotel check in.
Had dinner at our hotel bar restaurant.
Pizza, a bottle of wine, and an amazing view.
Hotel: Trevarefabrikken. In 2014 converted from a former cod liver oil and carpentry factory. Large room, big bed and lots of light. Biggest shower we have had to date. Cool industrial style.
Still have the former machine shop tools as part of the hallway decor.
Day 16: Hennigsvaer
Rainy day, so got a late start hoping the weather would change, which it didn’t. Checked out what is known as the most beautiful football field in the world, given it is surrounded by water on all sides.
Walked around the harbor area and town.
This town definitely had more stores and food establishments than what we have experienced to date in Lofoten area. Including a glass making shop and candle making shop. There was also a place selling sea urchin lamps -very unique.
Dinner at Henningsvaer Lysstoperi Og Cafe -Quinoa/Kale salad, reindeer pizza and chocolate bun were very good and satisfying. Reindeer pizza with local berries was excellent.
