Vietnam
HCMC
Good morning Vietnam! Lots of crawling, dodging scooters, trying new drinks and foods, and making new friends with these smiling friendly people. HCMC is a maze of crowded alleys, congested larger streets, and very few moments of serenity. It felt like a city that never slept, although I think a Vietnamese superpower is to be able to sleep anywhere, anytime on their scooters, tabletops, etc. Great start to our Vietnam adventure.
3 days (good amount of time)
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Day 1: Book street, Notre Dame Church, Central Post Office, Ben Thanh Market, Bui Vien
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Day 2: Cu Chi Tunnel Tour, Food Tour via Scooters
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Day 3: Neighborhoods Tour, War Remants
Hotel: Au Lac Legend- good location, great breakfast buffet
Favorite restaurant or bar: Banana Mama Rooftop Bar
Day 1: Arrival / True first day
Wed Dec 24 - arrival 10:45pm
Heat and humidity marked our arrival. We expected the line at passport control and were pleasantly surprised when it only took 45 minutes as we had read it could take up to 2 hours. Note: We were also glad we had printouts of our visas. Asked for them by our airline at departure station and passport control on arrival.
Thurs, Dec 25: Book street, Notre Dame Church, Central Post Office, Ben Thanh Market, Bui Vien
We spent the day wandering around. The main things we saw and did are below, but what we loved most was just the organized chaos- watching the scooters (there are almost as many scooters as people in the country). You have to cross the street with confidence and trust they will go around you. Scooters parking takes over the sidewalks, so you often have to walk into the street, carefully merging in with the moving scooters. Dogs, families and products transported.
We loved watching the locals carry their wares, getting lost in the alleyways and seeing the locals sit in small plastic stools for a drink or a meal.
HCMC is a big city with over 10 million people. We walked around District 1 and 3 and there was no shortage of massage shops, restaurants, hotels and stores. We started at Book Street - one block of books (a little over rated).
Notre Dame church was unfortunately closed to visitors (think it was too full or a private event), much of it was also hidden under scaffolding. The Central Post office was beautiful on the inside. Reminded me a bit of grand central station with its high ceiling and little shops. Post office still active.
Ben Thanh Market had tons of stalls everything from food items, clothing, purses, shoes, sunglasses, etc. You absolutely must bargain and the stall owners do want to make a sale but if you go too low they will not give it away. There are fabulous deals to be had but who knows how long what you will buy will last 🤣
Stopped for Vietnamese coffee at Cafe Saigon. The traditional was too sweet for us but loved the salt and coconut. Coffee served with ice tea to clean your pallet. There will definitely be more coffees in our future.
Went to the Minh Anh Art Gallery as we are interested in buying a hand painted oil painting replica at a fraction of what something like that would cost in the US. The artists are amazing and can also make you a painting from a photo you provide within a few days.
We had lunch at Hoang’s Kitchen. We were introduced to the Vietnamese pancake. The pancake is filled with veges and then your protein of choice. The server cuts it into strips and you then take a piece and wrap it and some lettuce and herbs into a rice paper wrapper and dip it into sauce. It was very good!
It started to rain so we stopped at a store where you could shop and have a drink - Threads and Thirst. We hadn’t realized up to this point that there were lots of businesses located on upper floors in the buildings not just the ground floor. Next store over was a very cozy and popular cafe that had two resident cats - Nha Chung Cafe.
Went back to our original plan as the rain stopped and we headed to Banana Mama Rooftop Bar for HH which wasn’t being offered, but no matter, as the view was incredible. It’s a small magical space on the top floor of the Mayflower Hotel so either make a reservation or get their early for the sunset. Didn’t really have a sunset, but worth staying for darkness when the buildings start turning on their lights.
Walked through Bui Vien “Walking” Street on the way to dinner. We felt it was a bit seedy - Lots of bars, loud music, people trying to get you to sit at their tables, etc . We were told the next day that Bui Vien is HCMC’s red light district.
Dinner at A Taste of Saigon. Food and service was good.
HOTEL: Au Lac Legend
In a good location. Rooms didn’t have a window as we opted for the cheapest room but good size with extra-large bed. Our room included an incredible buffet breakfast spread. Typical breakfast options but also lots of dishes more like lunch / dinner options.
Top floor had a pool (small), gym, steam room (although walking outside pretty well covered any need for this), lounge area and rooftop bar. One day we joined the complimentary tea in the afternoon on the rooftop. Lots of little dessert options to go along with the tea or coffee.
Day 2: Cu Chi Tunnel and Food tour
Cu Chi Tunnel tour We were picked up at 8:30am and entered a van of 8 people, so we made 12. It was a 2.5-hour bus ride to the tunnels. We did stop at about 1.5 hours in for restrooms and touring eggshell art factory. The art was created by locals that were disabled by the war. Excellent guide Tom talked almost nonstop most of the way with interesting history, much about the Vietnam War and Vietnam in general. Before entering the tunnels, you could check out a helicopter, plane and tank that were used in the war.
Air vents to support the extensive network of tunnels which stretch over 250 km (155 miles) that were built by hand by the Viet Cong during the Vietnam War as hidden living quarters, supply routes, and command centers.
Crawling thru tunnels was fun, but quite sweaty. Multilayered- first layer you can stand, second you walk like a duck and final layer you crawl like a snake.
One of the tunnel layers we crawled through was quite tight. You had the option to skip the tunnel and meet those that did crawl through when they crawled out.
Very light lunch of fresh tapioca root (just like what the people ate who lived in the tunnels - for digestion and poops that didn’t smell) so we were definitely hungry by the time we got back around 3:40pm. We also stopped at a gun range on the way home as some of the folks we were with wanted to go while the rest of us waited in the van.
Loved our food tour. Exhilarating riding on the scooters to our different destinations. We each had our own guide/bike. Helmets were provided. Different perspective being right in the hub of the chaos. Took a few rides to get comfortable.
Lost count of the food stops. Everything was very good. A couple of things outside of my comfort zone but others tired. Would highly recommend! Our guides were young college students who made us feel welcomed, comfortable and safe at all times. They were great
Definently some food Amy wasn't comfortable with but no pressure to eat it.
Day 3: Neighborhoods, War Remnants, More Rooftop Bars
3 coolest neighborhoods in Siagon (8:30am - 1pm)
Throughly enjoyed exploring 3 different neighborhoods that weren’t touristy. Our guide was excellent. Very knowledgeable and kept us moving at a good pace with appropriate breaks. First district were able to see how the Vietnamese live. Walked through lots of smaller crowded streets and markets.
Scenery was spectacular and sunrise was worth the early wake up.
Second district walked through China town - beautiful temple, fish alley, herbal medicine street - rice wine for digestion
Last district went to a cafe with a secret bunker.
War Remnants Museum - a must. Super intense. Distributing photos and factual information about the horrific war crimes America committed. Super crowded. Plan to spend 1-2 hours.
Social club Rooftop bar - larger space than Banana Mama but felt more pretentious and we weren’t as wowed by the view. Much closer to our hotel.
Dinner at Chay Garden. Lovely open dining area. I felt the food was good with generous portions, but my daughter didn’t particularly care for the dishes we chose. She felt they were too “dry”. May have been we ordered too many dishes with crispy noodles.
Notre-Dame Cathedral was beautifully lit up for the holidays.
